(if you haven’t read part 1 – it’s below part 2 so page down to the previous blog if you want to know the start of the story…..)
After our delicious paella the evening before we woke up with a sense of great anticipation. Today was the day we were invited to El Valero – the farm featured in “Driving over lemons” and Chris’s other books. The feeling was a bit like when you’ve read a brilliant book and then you’re not sure if you want to see the film. Would a visit to the farm live up to our expectations after reading all the books and formed a picture in our minds ? Having met Chris and enjoyed spending time with him over a few days this was not really a worry – we were just looking forward to seeing his and Ana’s part of the Alpujarras and of course to meeting the lovely Ana too (also known as Santa Ana / Saint Ana).
El Valero was a mini-bus trip away from Las Chimeneas, the first part of the journey to the coffee stop on main roads then after that …….. hmmmmmm……what can I say ?? The roads got narrower and narrower and climbed higher and higher with steep drops, high cliffs and lots of rocks. The mini-bus also got quieter and quieter as a few of us got more and more nervous – me included! I must say it was a huge relief when the bus got as far as it could, the rest of the way to the farm was a walk. That journey was not only weendy windy but hairy and just a tad scary too 😉 I was particularly happy to be back out in the fresh air and we set off walking along towards the river crossing. The bridge we crossed is still the one described in “last days of the bus club” (Chris’s last book) although various bridges have been built over the years then subsequently washed away and re-built. For the avid book fans in the group this crossing was really meaningful as it is the one route in and out of the farm as described many times over the years in the books.
As we continued our walk after crossing the stream (which can become a huge raging river) we realised just how isolated this place is – and also how wonderful. It struck us all as to how on earth Chris and Ana found the place. It also became abundantly clear how much this has been a life project. It is a little oasis in the midst of a fairly bleak landscape. All the greenery has been planted and lovingly tendered over many, many years (mainly by Ana as Chris told us). We were greeted by Chris and walked up onto the patio area where lunch had been lovingly laid out, minus the pizzas which were cooked and handed round over the course of the lunch. Everything was so fresh and delicious and we were all made to feel so wonderfully welcome.
We all felt extremely privileged to have been invited and so warmly welcomed to El Valero. After our lovely, tasty lunch we wandered about exploring the gardens and growing areas that Ana and Chris have created. All too soon the time to leave started to draw nearer, but of course we couldn’t leave without a book signing from our favourite author. Chris was extremely obliging and we had great fun getting our books signed personally.
We had the option of a walk out through the valley and then a climb up to the road where we could be met by the minibus with the rest of the group who had stayed a little longer at El Valero. A group of us took this choice – which also included crossing the stream 3 times (twice in our bare feet and once via a very bouncy bamboo bridge – quite an experience). Wandering the other way from El Valero once again we really got to appreciate how isolated the place really is. If the stream was full – it would be un-crossable and indeed from reading Chris’s books we know it can become a raging torrent. Luckily for us it was very low and made an idyllic walk along the valley floor. The climb up was challenging but delightful with fabulous views all the way, this took our minds off the huffing and puffing. We were joined by Antonio and Clara the shepherds whose sheep and goats we had walked with and I have to say it was very much a busman’s holiday for them. They were great company along with David who told us all about this area during the civil war and we even saw some hideouts that had been used high in the hills with views down the valley towards the coast.
We met the minibus in a layby just off the main road and climbed aboard for the rest of the journey back to Las Chimeneas (thankfully it was the main road bit of the drive). We seemed to get back quickly and enjoyed a wonderful evening meal of asparagus soup followed by beef casserole and in my case sticky toffee pudding – delicious. We were pretty tired after a very full day so I’m sure my eyes closed almost as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Our final day was a walk to the “top of the world” It started with a very steep uphill pull out of the village and up and up onto the tops. It was truly spectacular and we were right up there with the remaining snow patches. Since the sun came out and we were warmed by our uphill meandering the t-shirts were out for a few of us. We had to divert our course due to a herd of free roaming cows especially since we were joined on the walk by Holly and Princesa two beautiful dogs. David quickly put them on the lead when we saw the cattle and quickly wandered well out of their way. Potential danger averted and we were soon back on the track and heading back along the tops with those wonderful views.
We could not have stopped in a more outstanding spot for our lunch. An old threshing circle with quite breathtaking views across the mountains to the Mediterranean sea. Our lunch this time was actually a pack-up since we had walked beyond where the 4×4 could get to us. The contents were once again delicious including fresh almonds and walnuts, tuna pie and homemade bread and lovely cheese. No sandwiches here.
On our way back we stopped in the village of Jubar where we were very privileged to get a tour of the small church from David. It is special because it has very old frescos that were only recently discovered and the significance of them is still being understood as they have Christ with an unknown woman at either side of him which is extremely unusual. David gave us a whole history overview too which was really interesting. On our way back through the village we stopped at the honey producer (literally behind a garage door) and bought ourselves some local honey, how fabulous.
A group of us decided to head out on an extension loop walk back to Mairena – wandering back up the hill following David’s instructions. Before long we were seeing patches of snow once again as we walked and chatted. Somehow we took a wrong turn and came to a dead end – we re-traced our steps…..and then got on what we assumed was the right path. We could see the houses so we knew we were heading in the right direction but the path kind of petered out and we needed to clamber down a little ravine. We asked a friendly local tending his vegetables who said we weren’t on the official path but we were in the right direction. We laughed as we realised all four of us had listened to David’s very clear instructions and we had still gone on the wrong path ! A few minutes later we were back in the village having greatly enjoyed our little adventure off the beaten track 😉
It was before dawn when we enjoyed our final breakfast, everyone a little subdued thinking about the day ahead – for most people a day of travelling. It seemed like only two minutes before we were walking down the hill to the coach and watching our new friends clamber aboard. We waved them off before gathering our things and saying goodbye to Emma and David – laden down with books. Not only is Chris Stewart the author of the alpujarras but also both Emma and David. We came back with cookery books and historical novels both set in the area so we’ll enjoy reading them on our return.
We had an absolutely amazing time in the Alpujarras – stunning scenery, delicious food and wonderful company. We had the most animated and knowledgeable guides and we couldn’t have asked for better weather either. If you’re thinking of walking in Spain definitely head for the Alpujarras in Andalucía – you won’t be disappointed. If you’re more of an armchair traveller then look for a book called “Las Chimeneas” by Emma and David Illsley (a collection of recipes and stories from the place we stayed). If you prefer a novel then David Illsley has also written “The Heart of a Life” a historical novel, set in the Alpujarras of course. Along with re-reading Driving over lemons that’s my reading list sorted out for now ….. time to relax.
The Adventures of Gemini J 