On the road again !

It was time for a weekend break … we had found an amazing company who would deliver a hire car to us. Alvaro duly arrived at our boat on Saturday morning, apologising for being early with our car. A ridiculously small amount of paperwork later and we had the keys.

We drove to the beach resort of La Herradura for breakfast, stopping to admire the views along the way.

We stocked up on essentials before heading back to the marina (via the scenic route if course). As we arrived back at the resort we got stuck in a traffic jam. A bus had got stuck at the bottom of the hill so it just stopped short and started dropping off all it’s passengers. One of them was then dispatched to come and walk along the traffic queue telling us we’d all have to reverse as the bus had to reverse back up the hill !! It was a nightmare but luckily we were only second in line and we managed to get out of it’s way fairly easily. I must say though, reversing up a steep hill in a hired Fiat Panda with a coach hot on your heels is quite an experience.

We spent the afternoon relaxing before the next day when we were super excited to visit our lovely friends at their new villa.

Their place sits high on a hilltop above Competa and it is stunning. But more stunning was the fact that we got to spend time with Poppy and Judith. We had lots to catch up on and we spent a wonderful day relaxing together.

After our afternoon swim we went off exploring the land, trying to identify the myriad of fruit trees that they have. We found an apricot tree laden with fruit and ate them straight off the tree, delicious – time to find apricot recipes methinks đŸ˜‰

As the day turned to evening we enjoyed a celebratory drink (or two) and a lovely meal.

Tines had great fun trying to catch gekkos

All too soon it was time to say goodbye – or hasta luego since I know we’ll be back.

We drove back down the hill on Monday morning and took the coastal motorway back to the marina.

We handed back the keys to the hire car and paid the bill – then headed off towards Motril – the conditions were forecast to be around 1m – 1.5m swell with 10-15 knots pushing us along our way.

When we actually got out of the marina once again we found the sea to be a bit choppier than anticipated !! So virtually no photos were taken, I was on the helm all morning trying to stave off slight seasickness !

To be honest that soon subsided as the sea picked up to 3m plus on the swelly side!!!! Luckily Motril is not far as the wind picked up again to 25 knots. Skipper Nigel did another excellent job of getting us on berth in extremely gusty conditions and we could relax….

We went to the club nĂ¡utico for a delicious lunch and fell asleep ridiculously early after an absolutely wonderful weekend.

Changes, changes

We set out from Fuengirola with the plan of sailing to CĂ¡leta de VĂ©lez for a weekend break but as they say, the best laid plans…..

There was no wind at the start of the journey and once again we were motoring along on really calm seas.

We called ahead to book the marina only to find it was full !! All weekend !! This kind of scuppered the plans we’d made on the way out, I’d sorted out where we could hire a car as we were planning to visit friends …. I am not ashamed to say there were a few tears before re-grouping and re-planning.

The next marina along the coast from CĂ¡leta happens to be Skipper Nigel’s favourite, Marina del Este so we gave them a call. No problem, of course we have space, yes you can arrive late afternoon. PHEW !! Panic Over.

In the meantime the wind had picked up and we were sailing along on our new heading in brilliant conditions. It was fabulous and the boat was set so well that we were really relaxed.

It seemed like no sooner had we got ourselves settled than boom ! The conditions changed again (that’s med sailing for you). We were suddenly in 20 knot changing winds and a 2-3 meter swell. We had to act quickly after the boat became more difficult to manage with the swell and under full sail. Tines was put down below and we ended up pulling the sails in as even with a reef it was really bumpy. The good news was that we were being pushed along by the current and making 6 knots with our engine almost on idle. It was certainly different. Thanks to these conditions I didn’t take any photos most of the day :-(. Til we approached punta de la mona.

We were very happy to arrive at the marina although even that was fun since Skipper Nigel had to “come in hot” onto the berth due to 22 knot+ winds. I was freaked out at the speed we had to approach and Nigel and the marinero were having a good giggle at me shouting “slow down” at the top of my voice as we hurtled towards the pontoon!! Ten seconds later we were safely on berth and we could relax after another mammoth day at the helm. I think a couple of days rest are in order……

Hasta luego Hércules

And finally the sail day we’d been waiting for. The conditions just as forecast and in our favour.

We left Ceuta in beautiful early morning sunshine and said goodbye (for this time) to the other Hercules as we left the harbour.

We motored out into the edge of the straits, watching the traffic like queue of huge ships passing through and onwards towards the Atlantic.

The conditions were lovely and as soon as we’re were round Ceuta point we put the sails up and turned the engine off. We’re were sailing….and making amazing speeds too (up to 8 knots once or twice)

We spent a wonderful day and the conditions continued until about 15 nautical miles from our destination Fuengirola.

The last couple of hours we were motoring along and just looking forward to getting into the marina. The day had other ideas for us though, just as we were approaching the headland near the port a massive motor boat sped towards us from the distance. Skipper Nigel started moaning about “smokers” and how they always have to come too close. Til we realized it was the Guardia Civil and we were being approached!! Gulp! There followed a few minutes of them circling us, binoculars out, looking on our deck, waving at us, then shouting (yes they were close enough to shout!!) “Channel 72” We duly switched our radio onto said Channel and were asked where we had come from. Ceuta seemed to be an acceptable answer since they then thanked us and sped off into the distance to approach another unsuspecting yacht on the horizon.

After that episode all that remained was for us to navigate our way through loads of fishing nets and pots into the harbour. We finally arrived 12 hours after we’d left and got ourselves into berth since there was no marinero in sight! Luckily Barry the lovely American was back on his neighbouring boat and he jumped off and came to give us a hand. Phew, what a day!!

Into the arms of Hercules

We woke up to this stunning view of Ceuta town…..

We had booked into marina Hercules for two nights so we could explore a little. By strange coincidence (and actually not for the first time, it happened before in Ibiza) we bumped into our sailing instructor Walter. His boat Costa Blanca Sailing was moored 7 spaces away from us ! We compared notes on our sail over and our next plans. Interestingly he was heading to Seville up the river, through locks and under bridges with his crew, what a fabulous adventure! We watched them set sail that morning.

We wandered out of the port to have a coffee and meet Hercules. Legend has it that he was the one who created the straits between Ceuta point and Europa point (Gibraltar).

Ceuta seems much more Spanish than we imagined, I guess a bit like Gibraltar is extremely British, Ceuta is super Spanish. Everyone here speaks Spanish and all the restaurants and shops are pretty much what you’d find in any high street on mainland Spain. It does have some interesting buildings….

…and fabulous beaches which look out to Morocco. It was too windy for us to be sailing and also too windy for a beach day which was a shame.

The thing that struck me was how un-touristy it is, given that a ferry seems to arrive every couple of hours. We didn’t see any postcards or t-shirts for sale. We didn’t see any “local goods” either. We weren’t even approached by anyone selling African novelties like we had been in Fuengirola. Perhaps we needed to wander a bit further afield from the port, or perhaps the number of local police, army police and Guardia Civil prevents this (we saw more security here than in any port we have ever visited) We’ll just have to come back and find out ….. I would recommend a visit here to anyone. I think we only just scratched the surface in our limited time here.

Crossing continents

Today was the day !! We had studied the weather forecast and studied it again. We were on !! We had decided to make the crossing to the continent of Africa (to Spanish Ceuta to be exact).

I headed to the office as soon as it opened to hand back our electricity converter plug and shower block key which were on deposit. This is something we do most days but this day I took Tines – she waited outside whilst I got our deposit back.

As we walked back past the boatyard we saw a boat named “Dorothy” being cleaned, since this was Grandma’s name I felt a smile come over my face, today will be a good day.

We headed out towards Gibraltar in calm conditions but we knew the wind was likely to pick up as we went out into the straits between Gibraltar and Ceuta.

We had fabulous views of Gibraltar rock as we motor sailed past.

We also got great views across to Africa which was surrounded in haze. It would have been nice to see it clearly but we could see the mountain tops clearly, rising out of the mist which seemed so close and yet so far away.

So, on this journey obviously we were crossing a major shipping lane. Which is always interesting.

As we were crossing we found the weather picking up. The swell was more or less as forecast and it was choppy rather than uncomfortable. Every so often a larger wave came upon us crashing against the bow (which Tines hates) in fact we ended up popping her down below as the wind picked up, and up !! Soon we were well over 20 knots and having to motor sail to crash through the chop. It was quite a challenge!

You can’t see 34 knots on a photo, in fact looking back at the shots we took it looks relatively calm but trust me it was a real adventure.

As we reached Ceuta we ended up slightly off the entrance to the marina – and unfortunately due to the tidal conditions it took us an hour longer to get in (but it felt like 3). It was quite a battle against the conditions but we made it to Africa – covered in salt but very happy

And now for some sailing

Wohooooo we finally got some wind !! Well not at the start or end of the day but in the middle which was good enough for us!

As we departed Fuengirola we saw more dolphins, absolutely stunning. Again they came right up to the boat, it’s like they want to check you out. We had to be really vigilant because there were a lot of fishing pots in the area but luckily it was really calm so they were relatively easy to spot. The dolphins were probably seeking out escapees from the fishing activities. We also had to watch out for the odd small boat fishing too.

and of course a motor boat heading to Marbella too….

Once the wind picked up we were flying along at 5-6 knots speed (which is fast for us) The wind direction took us towards Sotogrande and Marina de Duquesa more than Estepona which we were planning so we went with it. It was great fun. We even had to re-secure the ensign which came loose đŸ˜‰

As soon as it started the wind dropped, at that point we decided to call it a day and headed for Marina de Duquesa which we hadn’t visited before.

We found a lovely little marina, once again mooring on a “waiting quay” before heading into a berth. We were a little lonely here, not next to any other boats which ironically makes it slightly more difficult to moor up. Skipper Nigel did an excellent job however and we were quickly ready to relax. Not before I’d taken Tines on our evening walk of course.

The next morning we were quite tired so we took a couple of hours rest while it was super calm. We watched a huge motor boat being lifted out of the water – it seemed like it was probably about the maximum size the crane at the boatyard could lift!!

We decided on a very short hop the next day, hoping to do some sailing without worrying too much about our destination but to be honest there wasn’t enough wind so we just hopped an hour along the coat to Sotogrande where we were treated to views of Gibraltar from our mooring space (once again in a largely empty marina).

It was another case of tying up to the waiting quay to check in, this time like a mini castle.

This is a fairly modern marina once again with lots of palm trees and many different “canals” between apartment blocks.

We had a nice evening relaxing and enjoying watching other boats coming and going, we also did a bit of planning for the next day (watch this space)…….

A short swelly hop

As usual Tines woke us up at half past 6 in the morning I took her for a walk only to find the sea was quite rough. we had a beautiful sunrise walk along the Promenade and then we walked over to the breakwater. We saw that there was quite a swell but this often happens around the entrance to a marina. Here there is also a lovely statue to look over us sailors.

The forecast told us to expect swell and wind so we duly set off thoroughly enjoying the motor out of the marina. We cut round the breakwater and headed out to sea, hoping we’d get out of the swell once out at sea or at least it would be in a favourable direction for us, unfortunately that didn’t quite happen. Once again we were stuck with swelly seas and light winds. We knew we had a fall back position to turn back, which we debated for a while but there was also the option to push on 5 nautical miles to Fuengirola. We had been here before but that time we arrived in the dark and left at dawn the next day. We arrived a couple of hours later and moored up on the waiting quay before heading into the office with the paperwork. Once we had our space we manouvered round to berth 196 happily located between a charter yacht (skippered by Barry the lovely American) and S/Y Bifrost (skippered by the equally lovely Kild family who had sailed here from Denmark.)

Not a lot of photos taken that day but the next morning I was back in action on my sunrise walk with Tines.

What to make of Fuengirola. It’s got lots and lots of high rise hotels and apartments. It’s got a huge number of British bars and eateries. It’s not got much Spanish feeling about it, well at least not the parts I managed to explore. Admittedly, go one street back from the beachfront and it’s possible to find a Spanish bar/cafĂ© frequented by locals. We actually had a fabulous rest day here, we stayed around the boat, we went for a big cooked breakfast followed by a trip to the chandler’s.

Skipper Nigel did boat jobs while I went to the supermarket and I found out where all the Spaniards were…..

We had a siesta and watched the comings and goings of the Fuengirola boat businesses, all in all a lovely day.

Never a dull moment

After a wonderful rest day, during which we had bought a new lure for Skipper Nigel’s fishing rod we set out anticipating good winds and perhaps a slight swell.

Oooops, what we got was a fairly large swell and light winds (not quite as forecast) so Tines and I were pretty uncomfortable. We couldn’t sail but pulling the sail out did even out the boat a bit and we headed across the bay of Malaga.

Skipper Nigel got out the fishing line (bearing in mind we’ve had the fishing line out across the Balearics and back and all around Cartagena with no luck to date). In less than half an hour we had “fish on” – “oh crikey” (well that’s not exactly what was said but it’s close), what to do next, it was a dilemma, and a situation that we weren’t fully prepared for. The line we had been sold had a number of hooks on it and as we pulled it up there were 4 fish hanging there! We were both completely shocked, we rushed to grab a towel and proceeded to try to get them aboard. Two, luckily for us and them, escaped. We had two left to deal with, we got them aboard, smothered them in a towel and thought they were dead – we put them in a bowl then the flapping about started. We did reach for a hammer to try to put them out of their misery but neither of us could do the deed, we quickly threw them back in the water hoping they survived the ordeal. Skipper Nigel vowed never to fish again, I vowed to look up how to catch fish so that we would be more prepared next time. Honestly, I wonder about us sometimes, we went into a shop to buy a lure to help catch fish – it did exactly what the shopkeeper said it would – and we were so surprised it worked we didn’t know what to do!!!!! Suffice to say that we ended up having chicken curry for tea !!!

After fish-gate (which actually upset us both a bit more than we cared to let on) the swell took a bit of a turn for the worst, Tines and I were definitely not 100%, we headed for the nearest port, which is a new port for us, Benalmadena. Skipper Nigel took the helm but not before he photographed us asleep ……

On arrival in this massive marina complex we were offered two options – noisy or quiet, this is a strange dilemma, did we want to be near the bars and restaurants or on the outer part of the harbour complex. I headed back to the boat to consult with Skipper Nigel who opted for noisy (which surprised me at the time). We headed right into this massive marina complex and found ourselves docked in the very inner part right below the SeaLife centre. It proved to be an excellent choice, we would have described it as “lively” rather than “noisy” but then again we are used to the sounds of Spanish weddings til half past five in the morning in Cartagena!
The next morning we woke up and were having our coffee aboard when we noticed a photo shoot taking place – cutting a long story short, the photo shoot ended up using our boat for the model to pose on. It was really interesting and funny at the same time. It turned out they were all Russian, including the beautiful model herself who spoke really good English. There were 3 “support” people carrying shoe boxes and outfits, a male and female model and the photographer. They spent about half an hour photographing various poses on Gemini J. Sadly we don’t know when or where the photos will be published but keep a lookout on a billboard near you …..
We had decided to have a rest day as there was still a swell at sea and we explored the marina by dinghy, trying out our fabulous new electric motor at the same time. It was great fun and a brilliant way to see the whole marina without walking miles!

This is a great marina complex and one that I hope we’ll come back to. Perhaps next time we’ll try the outer harbour now that we have experienced everything the inner harbour has to offer, including a lovely restaurant just overlooking our boat – fabulous.

Across calm blue seas

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise at Marina del Este before re-filling all our fuel cans and getting underway.

It was a wonderful morning, relaxing from the point of view that we expected no wind, and there was no wind ! We hugged the coast enjoying the views of the fabulous properties here. There are some truly spectacular sights and it always amazes us how many of them seem unoccupied although I know come August that will definitely not be the case. I am not sure cliff-top living would be for us, but I would love to look around one of these waterfront places just to see how the other half live (as the expression goes).

After our wondering over the properties we were treated to one of the most wonderful sights possible – a pod of over 50 dolphins. They were close in shore, much closer than we have seen previously and they were jumping out of the water in spectacular fashion. We were both admiring them from a bit of a way off for quite some time before a few of them came to join us and swam alongside the boat for a few minutes. It is such a privilege to get to see this sight and feel so close to nature. Virtually impossible to photograph but I will always try and I would love to be able to share this sight with you.

After that I must admit the journey did seem a little on the boring side of lovely, mainly from the lack of other boats once again and the real lack of anything other than sunshine! It was a great relaxing day and we arrived at one of our favourite marinas in time to see the sunset. Apparently the Spanish describe this sea as “like a plate”

The next day was my birthday – not a sailing day but a relaxing day – we did some boat chores in the morning before heading out for lunch travelling about 500 steps from the boat to El Camarote restaurant which is right on the dockside in Caleta de Velez (not that far from Malaga). We had a delicious lunch and a couple of glasses of wine. I had lots of lovely birthday wishes and some really nice phone calls that day we are very blessed with such a lovely family and friends.

Heading west to marina of the east

This morning the weather was duller and more swelly than forecast, and with more wind – usually great news, although not really today since we were heading straight into it! We were aiming to do a straightforward hop between Adra and Motril along the coast westwards. We battled a bit with the conditions but they calmed down and we motor sailed all the way to Motril. Once again it was really quiet at sea, we passed only 4 other boats all the way, we listed to a repeated “pan pan” call out for a small migrant boat with 21 people aboard in our vacinity but we didn’t see anything.
Once again this area of coastline is peppered with plastic sheeting growing more of those precious vegetables for the less sunny climes. The lighthouse as we approached Motril was a welcome sight.

This marina is quite large and the club nautico is right at the far end of it so it is quite a long motor in to the mooring quays. We radioed ahead (as we had been advised to do) – no answer, we tried again, still no answer, we tried on our other radio, still no answer …. we kept calm, we sorted ourselves out and moored up on the clearly marked waiting quay. I spotted a bouncy castle in the grounds of the club house before I heard the noise, as I approached I saw lots (and lots) of fancily dressed children …. when I was inside I realised what had happened, amongst the noise of 3 communion celebrations we hadn’t been heard! The marineros were lovely and we were welcomed, they even did a radio check for us (funnily enough it worked!) We decided against joining the melee of the celebrations and ate aboard, watching all the comings and goings of the port, including a small sail training boat with 10 trainees aboard and a giant ferry from Morroco. Tines and I went off exploring, the club nĂ¡utico here is actually in a kind of closed off secure location, part of the ferry port I suppose you’d say – there are some lovely old buildings here which must have been an amazing sight before they were hidden behind concrete walls.

There is also an interesting boat park here, hidden behind some stunning trees and plants

We left fairly early on Sunday morning to do a short hop to the beautiful marina del Este, the conditions were mill-pond like and we saw only 1 other boat on our journey. We did get some sail out but if we’re honest with ourselves there wasn’t that much point, but it did look good ;-)We arrived in plenty of time to have a lovely lunch and rest afternoon in this stunning location, the photos definitely don’t do it justice.